adjusting thrust fork.

[Day-mow]

hey guys. it appears my thrust/clutch fork is touching my clutch. how do i adjust it? and please tell me its not gear box out.

cheers

[T3man]

OK then ... it's not gearbox out.

Oh sh!te I've just lied to someone ..... who isn't a shiela

[Day-mow]

realllyyyyy?! its a gearbox out job? :(

[T3man]

Well if your fork is touching the clutch (I assume you mean pressure plate) then it certainly is.

But ... your terminology is confusing ... you put "thrust/clutch fork" ... do you mean your release bearing (sometimes called a thrust bearing)? Or do you in fact mean the fork itself?

Because ... if the bearing is touching the pressure plate that isn't an issue, unless of course it is applying pressure before you do so with the pedal. That's a pretty unlikely scenario unless your cable is kinked or very very dry.

On the other hand if you do in fact mean that the fork is touching the pressure plate that means the pivot has collapsed or the fork has cracked/broken - gearbox out!.

[Day-mow]

Oh yep. I get what you mean. My thrust bearing appears to be touching the pressure plate fingers. As i learnt in trade school this year. That's not ok. It doesn't seem to have pressure on it but my car doesn't chip 2nd since putting in a new clutch. So this is 1 of 2 possible issues. Hoping for the easy fix 1st

[T3man]

Well if you want to have your throwout bearing completely clear of the pressure plate you simple back off your cable adjustment. You will also have to remove the pedal "helper" spring if there is one fitted. Then you will also have to become accustomed to your clutch pedal being 2" higher than the brake pedal LOL.

The fact is that regardless what someone at TAFE has fed you there is no problem with the release bearing resting against the fingers. In fact it is designed to be that way with most modern vehicles.

It will also have nothing to do with why your car no longer chirps 2nd.

Do this simple test if you think your clutch is slipping ... select 4th gear and dial up 2000RPM; drop foot off clutch. If motor stalls your clutch is fine. If the clutch slips you'll know you have a problem!

BTW, how far off the floor does the clutch start to take up?

[mik]

Originally Posted by T3man

Well if you want to have your throwout bearing completely clear of the pressure plate you simple back off your cable adjustment. You will also have to remove the pedal "helper" spring if there is one fitted. Then you will also have to become accustomed to your clutch pedal being 2" higher than the brake pedal LOL.

The fact is that regardless what someone at TAFE has fed you there is no problem with the release bearing resting against the fingers. In fact it is designed to be that way with most modern vehicles.

It will also have nothing to do with why your car no longer chirps 2nd.

Do this simple test if you think your clutch is slipping ... select 4th gear and dial up 2000RPM; drop foot off clutch. If motor stalls your clutch is fine. If the clutch slips you'll know you have a problem!

BTW, how far off the floor does the clutch start to take up?

interesting , i have`nt been near a clutch for many years, last one was on a kenworth about 13 years ago, yes i was taught as a young buk like Daymo you adjusted the thrust bearing so it just touched the fingers then backed it off until you could just spin it, ah well we live and learn .

[Day-mow]

well then my clutch must still be slipping if it doesn't chirp 2nd any more.... correct?

there feels like there is play before i can feel the clutch start to engage. i probably can move it 25-50mm? before it starts to kick in so that made me think it was all ok.

i should have machined the fly wheel :(

[MNM96]

Originally Posted by mik

interesting , i have`nt been near a clutch for many years, last one was on a kenworth about 13 years ago, yes i was taught as a young buk like Daymo you adjusted the thrust bearing so it just touched the fingers then backed it off until you could just spin it, ah well we live and learn .

The 15 and a 1/2 inch Spicer clutch in your KW is probably a little different to that in any falcon ever, much less than a late model.

With a cable pull type clutch, we must ensure we have some freeplay on the cable. Not a lot.

As for your KW Clutch, it was a pull type clutch. You adjust it ensuring there is a 1/2 inch gap at rest, between the throw out bearing and the clutch brake, and about 1 to 2 inches free travel at the pedal. It is adjusted internally by rotating an internal ring through a hole in the bottom of the bell housing.


To the OP, what is exactly your issue, as opposed to the symptoms? Won't chirp second? Clutch slipping?

[mik]

indeed the kenny set up is a bit different ,

i would wait a while before judging your new clutch it might need a bit of time to bed in.

[Day-mow]

Clutch has done about 1-2,000km by now. It jus doesn't feel like it used to. But it's the same model clutch I put in. It no longer chirps 2nd. Did the 2,000 rpm test in 4th and it moved a little then stalled. I think it's slipping. I should have machined the fly wheel when I did it but I took it to a "guru" and he said it'd be fine. I can't smell clutch though. Perhaps I guess I could try adjusting it. There is some free play in the cable. But maybe I need more? Clutch pedal height Nd engaging for memory is around the mark of where it used to be.

[T3man]

It sounds fine to me. Your test proves it is NOT slipping. Sleep well.