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#3241 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,640
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Today was about trying these new products out. I’ll deal with some protection another time.
Any tips on technique with the BlowR? |
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#3242 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Checking out soft furnishings....
Posts: 8,696
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Alright, so the Rodeo detail. Plan was to just clean it up for sale. I gave myself an aim for 12 hours all up to prep it, that's for everything. I didn't want to give it a detail that made it look like I was trying to hide something. So little things, I didn't clean the tray thoroughly, I didn't black the tyres, I didn't wash the engine bay. What I did do, was clean it up to present it nicely for sale as it's a straight and honest ute. As in previous posts I had done the interior. I took the seats out and fully washed the vinyl interior, I also steamed the seats.
So the exterior, I had yesterday free so decided I would sort it out. I gave it a wash with Nova Snow +. I then used turps to get rid of heaps of tar on the bottom of the doors. I like turps, it's cheap and works the same, if not better than the more expensive product. I let it dwell for about a minute, then wipe it of, then thoroughly wash the area, don't ever let it dry on the paint. Then I dried it, I didn't use clay as besides the tar, it was pretty good and I didn't need it perfect. Paint correction time, I used a combo of scholl S20 and The Last Cut with an orange pad. I didn't work the product hard, I wasn't chasing any big scratches. All I was doing was removing the small scratches and swirls and getting a bit more shine. The photos show how nicely it came up. Most the car had a minor yellow tinge that you couldn't really see until I started correcting it. I did the correction quickly. I spent 5 1/2 hours all up on the correction, which is bugger all, I spent over 30 hours on the P250 paint alone for comparison. I probably achieved about a 70% finish on it for defects, shine was great. From there I then checked over the paint and then hit a few areas I knew I could fix up. I am so glad I bought the mini polisher, it cuts time down so quickly. I've only used the rotary head so far, it cuts amazingly quickly. Then I gave it a wipeover with NV clarity and gave it a coat of NV Lustre. I then attacked the plastic trim with Bowdens Mr Black. With the car all done I went and took for sale photos. All up I spent 12 1/2 hours on the detail. I put it up for sale last night at 10pm on marketplace and also made an ad for carsales. I priced it higher than the others online as it presented much better even though it had 350,000km. I woke with 12 messages from marketplace. I filtered through them and 1 guy wanted to look at it straight away. He arrived at 9am and drove it away at 915. Quickest and easiest sale i've ever had. I thought it would sit around for a while. It's gone to a farm to be used as a runabout, perfect ute for that. I got notification at 10am the carsales link was live, what a waste of money that was. Feel free to ask any questions as I didn't go too in depth with this post. Ready to go ![]() Turps to get the tar off ![]() Can see where it wipes straight off at the bottom ![]() Masked up ![]() Can see the paint blemishes and marks ![]() This shows how the paint was discoloured ![]() Same spot all corrected ![]() ![]() Headlights yellowed, I didn't sand, just polished with The Last Cut and then sealed. ![]() The plastics ![]() A few of the for sale photos I used, came up nicely, fun little project. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Proud owner of the ugliest Ford ever made |
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#3243 | |||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 12,196
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Quote:
You then drive water down the windshields and onto the wiper scuttle or boot lid. Do the same with the side glass, driving down onto the doors. I then blow out the wing mirror, the windshield scuttle, moving down onto the hood and front quarter panel. Drive water downwards on the doors, lightly lift the door handle to remove any trapped water, then make sure to blow out the panel gaps between the door and side skirts. Then do rear quarter and boot lid, don't forget behind the fuel door. From here, move to the passenger side and repeat the same, making sure to not blow water back onto the roof and glass. Finally, blow out the front and rear bumpers, paying attention to around the perimeter of the lights. For wheels/wheel aches, I do this as I move around the car. You can also use it to blast water from the door jambs, you would do this on half speed. Good luck.
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PX MK II Ranger FG XR6 FG X XR8 Mustang GT T3 TS50 - gone but not forgotten |
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#3244 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 12,196
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Of the countless products and brands that I cycle through, the biggest compliment I can give a brand or product is if I go to buy it again...................
![]() I know Armour Detail Supply is the current buzz brand, but there is genuine reason for that hype. There is not a dud in line, but there are products I'm using more than others. Pilot one me over the second I opened the bottle, and Amplify is simply brilliant, no if's, buts or maybes! The wheel coating is for the new Mustang. I'm still wondering if I go wax or a coating with the S650, but I've now crossed out Gyeon Mohs EVO and have ADS Quartz in my sights. Also included in this order were three MTM weighted filters for the PF22.2 foam cannons. These were introduced on the updated PF22.2 and are now available for retrofitting existing foam cannons. I have been running one of my PF22.2's with a Kwazar weighted filter and it has really improved the functionality of the foam cannon, especially when approaching the last 100ml of liquid. No reason why these MTM filters couldn't be adapted to other brand foam cannons. For $6.00, its a now brainer. https://detailingshed.com.au/product...b5a46ab1&_ss=r ![]() ![]()
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PX MK II Ranger FG XR6 FG X XR8 Mustang GT T3 TS50 - gone but not forgotten |
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