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#1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 150
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Since having the car from new, I had my first major breakdown which in the end was not really major! The original battery was starting to lose its charge and through my own fault I had managed to flatten it quite a few times.
Went to start the car this morning and it would not fire. After a couple of cranks the engine would not even turn, just making the dreaded clicking sound. Being in a hurry and thinking that that it was the battery I straight away rang the NRMA battery service. the guy came and swears it was not the battery as it was still measuring 12.4 volts and dropping down to 6 when cranking. He said it was something else and that I would need the patrol car to come and fix. 15 minutes later the NRMA guy turns and whacks the jumper leads on it and still no luck. He removes a relay and manges to get the the engine to crank while charing from his car but still the engine would not fire. He does all the usual checks and all seems fine so he is stumped. Rings a mate who reckons it's computer problem which will need to be reset. So the car gets towed away to an auto electrician whilst I go to work. Get a phone call saying the car is fixed. According to them the problem was the battery which made the PCM lose its link with Body Electronics Module. He resets it and install a new battery. All is well now EXCEPT, when I brake and come close to a standstill, the engine runs very rough for a few seconds and then comes good. Any one heard of such a thing? All up it cost me $184. |
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#2 | ||||
You can't stop the signal
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Behind a computer at work
Posts: 1,624
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First i've heard of anything like this.
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Cheers
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#3 | ||
Fantastic Plastic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
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Volts isn't everything when it comes to batterys , the cranking amps left in the battery is more important.
Usually any car with electronic ignition with a really dead battery will make that clicking sound. My old ford laser , when the battery was getting old ( the battery was dead most cold mornings ) , sometimes i would have to leave the jumper leads attatched for about 20 mins with the jumping car running before i could even crank the laser over ! , the battery had to charge up a fair bit during the jump too before it would jumpstart. Try to start it any earlier and it would still click , even with the other jumper car running and heaps of throttle ! . Just sounds like you had a really dead battery / on its way out . With the rough idle etc now , i recon Superroo is on the ball about the ecu just re-learning irself too due to the reset from the flat battery/and battery change . cheers.
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#4 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 150
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Thanks for the feedback. I will keep an eye on the rough running when coming to a stop.
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