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11-07-2022, 05:10 PM | #1 | |||
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Tried 600+cca etc no change. I reckon something to do with ICC, i'm getting it replaced with an aerpro setup soon(ish).
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21-06-2023, 03:00 PM | #2 | |||
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So this particular battery lasted 2 months from this post before I opted to replace it. That was September 22. Here we are June 23 and for the last few weeks it has been getting moody. So strange where sometimes it lacks the grunt to turn the engine over on one turn. Wait a moment and it turns right over. Today running erands. Pull up at one shop and leave. All good. Fast start. Stop at next and go to leave. Dead, dead, dead. 3 turns and won't even turn over. Try again and it slowly turns enough to fire up. I don't know how it will go from here.. But for a battery with a 40 month warranty, getting 9 months out of it is pretty crap. I'll throw the multimeter over it and see whats happening if I can get home after work today. Not really impressed aye!~ |
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21-06-2023, 03:05 PM | #3 | ||
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21-06-2023, 06:47 PM | #4 | ||
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22-06-2023, 07:32 AM | #5 | |||
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Get battery out of car, charge up and get it load tested with carbon pile load tester, not the electronic job. It simulates the load of the starter motor on the battery. |
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22-06-2023, 02:09 PM | #6 | ||
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Well Century lost me a couple of years ago, Had one on a pump on the farm, it got a dead cell, did warranty claim, refused because I had to drill a hole thru each terminal coz they couldn't supply a flat tab one when I bought it, I said the terminals are not the problem it has a dead cell, they said it was modified so no warranty - I said see you, no more century for me, we have lots of batteries on the farm but as they die they dont get replaced with century
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22-06-2023, 03:01 PM | #7 | ||
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Nah, I'll stick with Century, the only large capacity wide plate, non deep cycle suitable for offgrid solar/wind systems.
The wide gap plates make them idea for cycling charges in a demanding solar system we use. Bought 2 N150's and a N120 for my truck today. The 2 N150's will go into service backing up the winter amps needed in these low sun hour days. While the single N120 will be a straight replacement for the existing 10 year old still in service one on the truck. She showing signs of slow cranking atm on these 0 deg mornings here. Used in all 6 trucks, boat and panel van.
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22-06-2023, 03:02 PM | #8 | ||
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It would be interesting to know at what levels of management within the business, that such an approach of brushing people off is considered “good practice”.
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22-06-2023, 07:51 PM | #9 | |||
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I've checked all the above. Earths and grounds are solid. Connections all good. I even went as far as pulling the starter motor out and bench testing it when one of the previous batteries threw in the towel. I really need to dig further with the multimeter when cracking the engine over. It's not like an immobiliser issue where it doesn't crank. It just doesn't have enough grunt to turn over quickly. |
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22-06-2023, 09:47 PM | #10 | |||
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Kept on load testing fine, multiple load tests. It once even failed to start immediately after a load test in the presence of the R&J guy. He just apologised and said he couldn't offer a warranty because the requirements to meet warranty weren't met. At that stage it was 3 or 4 months shy of its warranty period. New battery fixed that for a few years until it started again. Onto the next new battery now. Nearly 1 year in on a Supercharge without issue. The base model Century in POS Ghia is nearing 5 years old now. Has been rather reliable, but is starting to cause the same starting issues as yours and Dad's on hot starts. Cold starts you can feel its starting to get a tad sluggish. |
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09-07-2022, 12:36 PM | #11 | ||
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I don't think it is a problem with the battery, but with the continual trickle charging. It might be worth checking out the set point voltage at the "charge complete" mode on the charger.
Below is a link to an article by NECA on the dangers on using a battery designed for automotive cyclic use in a standby application. Note that having a battery under constant trickle charging is the same as having the battery in "standby application". https://www.neca.asn.au/necagroup/co...ery-explosions Specs for the nominated battery charger are here. https://www.ctek.com/au/battery-char...24v/xs-0-8-aus This link is to the recommended charging voltages by Century. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/...y-charging.pdf The information you are after is the table at the bottom titled "Maximum Charging Voltage by Battery Type". Important note: There are two applications; absorption charging and float charging.If the battery is under constant trickle charging - select the float charging values. My read of the manufacture's instructions is that the suggested float charging voltage is 13.2V to 13.5V. The charger's manual suggests that it is holding the battery at 13.6V (or thereabouts) at the conclusion of its charge. This appears to be above the battery's recommended float voltage charge. Also note that there is nothing "wrong" with the battery charger. An output of 14.4V when charging is smack in the middle of the recommended range of an absorption charge. Here is a link to another article that might be of interest on charging voltages for batteries that are effectively in storage. https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...w_it_works.pdf I think it is easy to get drawn into the argument that the battery should be stored at 100% capacity. In reality, all you want is enough juice to turn over the engine so that the car starts. At healthy battery at 90% capacity will start all but the most recalcitrant engine. Some possible options include; 1. Applying the existing battery charger, say, one day per month. 2. If the charging voltage is outside the "float charge" range, dropping the charging voltage down. Just some things to check out ... |
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17-07-2022, 04:53 PM | #12 | ||
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i had really good optima yellow top in my xd 351 ute that car could sit for up to 6-8 months and crank no worries but that battery was purchased 6years ago went with car when i sold it
now franco has me worried as I got a newer red top for my ba something inside me was telling me to keep that yellow top.... but thought just get a brand new one with cash in my hand LOL touch wood both were/have been really good for anyone interested there is a youtube video on how to keep lead/acid plate battery's going using a welder to shock the build up off the plates a-lot of people swear by it...... https://youtu.be/KzOQH1twpI8 just make sure the water is filled right up to the bottom of the plug holes so hydrogen doesn't build up inside the battery
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17-07-2022, 06:37 PM | #13 | ||
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Bought a Super Charge Battery for my BF GT, Got it for a reasonable price from a local supplier.
Lets See how this goes, hopefully I will not need to update this thread for another 6-10 years.
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17-07-2022, 06:38 PM | #14 | |||
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I remember years ago, our neighbour used to go around collecting old batteries in the early 90's then he used to sell batteries for half price with 12 month warranty. I always wondered what he did to them to bring them back to life.
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18-07-2022, 06:27 PM | #15 | |||
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Desulfurization itself is a controversial topic. While some minor sulfurization can been reversed, it is done so with a mild over voltage (2.5V per cell), a trickle current, and a narrow temperature band (50-60C). Certainly not by blasting the guts of the battery out with a welder. But once sulfuration has started, the battery is on its way out. Most good battery chargers have an alternate desulfurization process (by exposing the battery to high frequency charging pulses) built into their charging cycle. But, that too has some question marks over it. The best way not to get sulfurization is not to let the battery voltage drop below 12.4V when in storage, and keep the core battery temperature below 23C. As an aside, have you checked out the links I posted earlier on the battery voltage to apply when a battery is effectively in storage? |
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18-07-2022, 10:11 PM | #16 | ||
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probably a good idea to explain why it can be dangerous.
nothing in a lead acid battery is explosive... but the battery will give off hydrogen when charging and depleting.. hydrogen is volatile. it's also lighter than air so will not hang around the battery in an open air environment for very long. this is why you need to fill the battery up with distilled water. If its not full you get an air gap under the battery's lid and hydrogen will build up & accumulate in the top part of the battery's case/lid. This is the same for indoors closed environment. This in a non-ventilated area with an ignition source (connecting leads to the battery or surrounding ignition sources ie:electrical equipment "stationary motor" or "fork lift" etc etc can be enough to ignite it. I would mitigate the these risks like this: .have hose/water ready for clean up and emergency .eye protection / glasses are a must! .do this on a day with a little bit of wind and out doors .fill battery with distilled water leave caps loose .have welder unplugged from wall .have welder's switch turned off as well .connect welder to cleaned terminals .insure welder is set to lowest power setting .plug in to wall .then turn on .then adjust the power to suit whynot is correct it can be very dangerous if the person is not informed another way to mitigate this would be to not be a tightass and just buy a new battery pmsl. we always keep an old car battery in the shed for testing stuff, pumping diff oil etc etc if you want to revive an old battery this can work well.....l and then you have people who do this to keep there currant car battery going and they have good success
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19-07-2022, 01:20 AM | #17 | |||
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Cheers |
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27-06-2023, 12:06 PM | #18 | ||
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I'm joining in on the battery replacement, unfortunately need a pair ( wired together factory). My nearly 4 year old Exide extreme is showing10.5V, its mating pair 12.6V, 3 months out of warranty. Going to check out what R&J Batteries recommend, probably go for Supercharge Allrounder though. Matched pair in another Landcruiser went about 9 years before one failed, good one is still going in my caravan.
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27-06-2023, 02:21 PM | #19 | |||
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27-06-2023, 05:46 PM | #20 | |||
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27-06-2023, 05:58 PM | #21 | |||
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03-07-2023, 08:25 AM | #22 | ||
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Just has issues in my 2016 Territory with a 2 year old Century DIN65.
Intermittent non-start issues and loss of ICC memory, etc. ... everything checked over ... could replicate issues at the auto electrician. Battery testing showed weird issues where it reported OK sometimes and not other times. Went to Autobarn where I bought it ... was told that Id have to leave the battery with them for a Century rep to come and look at it .... might take a week for them to rock and check it. WTF am I supposed to do in the meantime when I need to use the car. What sort of warranty replacement is that. I would have bought Supercharge GOLD at the time ... but in the height of COVID I could not get one for love nor money. I now have a Supercharge Gold in the Territory ... the Century got binned. At least i know if I have a problem with the Supercharge, it will be replaced on the spot in warranty.
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03-07-2023, 09:01 AM | #23 | |||
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How long was the warranty on the Century ?
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03-07-2023, 09:14 AM | #24 | |||
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Also the fact they don't test them and rely on the Century rep to pop in once a week to do so is a ****ing joke. If collectively we want head office to notice this bull****, go to their Google business listing and give them a heap of 1 star reviews about their **** product and customer service from their reseller network: If there's someone at head office who is switched on and monitoring it then its a real nice kick in the *** because talking about it to all of us who know about it isn't doing much about the problem unfortunately. Head office probably isn't even aware, they wouldn't even be monitoring it at a KPI level if the resellers are rejecting warranty claims left right and centre or making it hard for you to make claims. If everyone here who has been burnt by Century does a 1 star review with a write up you'll get an audience at head office with the admin person who created the business listing in the company, they're monitoring the reviews because someones giving them all a thumbs up. Last edited by Franco Cozzo; 03-07-2023 at 09:23 AM. |
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03-07-2023, 09:32 AM | #25 | |||
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I don't get it, all the places I go to have battery reps drop in regularly to check stuff like this or replace it. Maybe these automotive retailers have their own agenda's to push certain items based on their mark ups or simply can't be bothered contacting the manufacturer. I didn't read anyone saying they were rejecting a claim either.
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03-07-2023, 10:34 AM | #26 | ||||
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The amount of Century batteries that BAPCOR buys from Century, you reckon they'd knock back their reseller network on warranty claims from their branches, even if they were bull****? (not implying that we have bull**** claims here in this thread, but spending that sort of coin with your suppliers buys you flexibility on these things to keep customers happy) It would be no questions asked swap for a new one if an Autobarn was making a warranty claim on their Century wholesaler, they're part of BAPCOR, who have a national account, move huge volume and would be on contract pricing. I know with my Century wholesaler, they'd never question my warranty claims and my volume was no way near national accounts, but I was the biggest in the Bendigo region for the past 20 years. I know one of the terms we had as a supplier to GPC Asia Pacific was no fault warranty claims, they didn't even need to send goods back they'd just make warranty claims and we'd credit them - no ifs, no buts, no maybes. As soon as that warranty paperwork hit my email inbox, they got credits for all their branches nationally. You want to sell to GPC Asia Pacific and the likes of Repco/NAPA then you accepted their warranty terms, BAPCOR is similar, if they've got outstanding warranty claims then they just don't pay invoices to their suppliers, but they won't send the stock back to you to check either. Quote:
Depends on the incentives structure with the staff, but these days no one in the parts game is on incentives on sales figures/GP, you get a set rate and it doesn't matter how much GP you turn, so there's no real incentive to **** customers because you don't get paid extra for it. Maybe the branch manager might but there's not many independent Autobarn stores left, the majority of the franchise holders got burned and then the stores reopened as corporate stores owned by BAPCOR. Last edited by Franco Cozzo; 03-07-2023 at 10:39 AM. |
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03-07-2023, 09:45 PM | #27 | |||
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Autobarn has been crossed of my list as a reputable trading store, in other words they are just ***** and liars. PS: This post will contradict your next one where they say it does not happen with supercharge batteries, cheers |
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03-07-2023, 11:03 PM | #28 | |||
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Its the manufacturer that makes it so difficult to get the warranty that it turns you off the brand. |
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03-07-2023, 11:20 PM | #29 | ||
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I would have thought that Autobarn etc would have enough clout to basically tell the battery suppliers how the warranty will work not battery makers setting the rules
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03-07-2023, 11:36 PM | #30 | ||||
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Say Autobarn swaps the battery or gives the customer a refund then sends off the "dud" one for inspection and the manufacturer goes "no fault found" then Autobarn has to suck up the loss. Do that a few times and Autobarn are no longer on the customers side, they will strictly follow manufacturers policy. And there is no way known the manufacturer will replace/refund every battery Autobarn demands they do. They will just stop dealing with Autobarn. Its interesting going back and reading some of the TSB's for the B-series. In one of them it specifically says: Quote:
When retailers start loosing money they quickly stand up and listen. |
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