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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

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Old 17-08-2005, 06:50 PM   #1
ED turbo (mickmalta)
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Exclamation Octane booster...... what have u used and was it any good?

As the title suggests, whos poared octane booster in and found it to be as good as the bottle suggests?

Any info would be great.......

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Old 17-08-2005, 06:57 PM   #2
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I put some nulon octane booster in last weekend for the drags to help prevent it pinging if it got colder but my piping came off so I didnt get to see if it helped or not. :P
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:03 PM   #3
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I will never put that in my car
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRUIZIN EB
I will never put that in my car
lol - another quality post

care to explain why?
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:05 PM   #5
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STP works a treat. Adds hp and makes it smell like its running on methanol.
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:12 PM   #6
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I run it in my mazda bushbasher, gets heaps more power.
Spitfire booster or something?

But in my EA running premium and octane booster yeilds less power and a sh1t idle. The car is CFI on duel fuel, has to be tuned to run lpg well..
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockstandard
lol - another quality post

care to explain why?
Because i dont belive in adding things to the Fuel,whatever the inprovement is
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:18 PM   #8
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Good thing your car isnt fast then.
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:19 PM   #9
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man i put in that spit fire octane booster it burnt all my exhaust valves. its crap dont waste your money.
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
man i put in that spit fire octane booster it burnt all my exhaust valves. its crap dont waste your money.
I buy whichever booster is on special at the time, the car is just to thrash
I got the mazda for $100 and it's RWD!!

http://members.westnet.com.au/geoffuren/mazda1.jpg
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http://members.westnet.com.au/geoffuren/mazda3.jpg
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:27 PM   #11
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Jesus put in 5 tanks of octane boost and you've doubled the value of your car TuMor.
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:30 PM   #12
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Every couple of weekends i have to go to the tip and buy second hand tyres, $5 each lol
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:45 PM   #13
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Too much use will eat away at your intake manifold gasket.
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Old 17-08-2005, 07:56 PM   #14
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also i heard the higher the octane at the pump the smaller the effect of octane booster.
eg 91 + octane booster = 97 ron
98 + octane booster = 100 ron
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Old 17-08-2005, 08:05 PM   #15
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The problem im facing is........ im sure some of u with wolf3d's hav thought of it......

I filled the car up on standard unleaded and boost capped the wolf @3psi as its my daily driver....... next time i filled up, in went BP ultimate which is what ive always used.

Now nomatter how much ultimate is in the tank, the bastard pings like a over 100kmh.

Cheers, Mick.
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Old 17-08-2005, 08:07 PM   #16
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Dude! You dont put regular in! It needs premium!

Its like $5 a tank difference. Its not worth the troubles.

Mine never pinged over, you might have to take it back to pete. Did you check your plugs and stuff like that?
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Old 17-08-2005, 08:12 PM   #17
ED turbo (mickmalta)
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Yep thats the line ive always use too dan...... I cant see how that would effect the plugs but.

I figured if it was boost capped, no damage would occur......

No time to get it back to pete.......
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Old 17-08-2005, 08:47 PM   #18
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Dont put regular in!
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Old 17-08-2005, 08:55 PM   #19
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Detonation ? Pinging ? Pre-Detonation ? Knocking ? Pre-Ignition ?

The above terms are very commonly used to describe the same thing, BUT not all of those words are interchangeable.

Lots of times you see statements like these:

"My car is pinging, and there's a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust"
"I can hear lots of detonation"
"My 95 GT pings a lot"
"I hear a knocking sound at high RPMS"
"My car pre-detonates a lot with the A/C on"

Very often what these users hears is DETONATION, other times it is NOT.

Details:

KNOCK, DETONATION OR PING

This is an intense pressure wave within the cylinder created when a LEAN mix of air and fuel ignites before the spark is delivered.The fuel/air mixture goes off by itself a micro second before the spark plug fires, at that time you have two intense high pressure waves clapping together and that energy wave hitting each other is the sound you hear. The sound you hear is from the actual vibration of the cylinder wall

Under normal circumstances, when the fuel-air mixture in the engine burns, it does so in a controlled manner, releasing the energy that produces the force that drives the pistons. Now, if you think about it, it might seem that the correct time for the spark plug to ignite the mix would be when the piston reaches the top of its stroke. Then, as the mix burns and energy is released, the energy pushes the piston down. The problem is that it takes a certain amount of time for the mix to burn. If you wait until the top of the stroke to ignite it, the bulk of the energy will be applied to the piston only during the latter part of its downward movement.

In order to get the maximum use out of the combustion energy, the mix is ignited while the piston is still moving up. This is called "advance". As the engine speed increases, fuel has less time to burn and advance is increased accordingly. Ignition advance is controlled by the engine management computer. It varies in response to a host of other conditions but the base advance curve is a function of engine speed.

Now we have a new problem. As the mix is ignited earlier, it is not compressed as much and has a tendency to burn at an uncontrolled extremely high rate (it basically explodes). This is called "detonation". When this happens, all the energy in the fuel is released almost instantly. The resulting shock wave slams into the piston which is forced through it by the inertia of the engine and the combustion in other cylinders . The resulting stress on the engine is enormous.

Detonation can be caused by several things not just a lean condition or bad choice of fuel octane: Too much compression and too much timing can also be to blame.

The most common way to describe the sound of detonation is: "like shaking a can full of marbles", but the BEST way to verify the existence of detonation is by reading the sparkplug's. If the plugs are very white, show a very eroded electrode and signs of metal deposits, then you have DETONATION.

The Cure: Less timing and/or higher octane gas and/or colder plugs.

Higher octane gas is a good safety measure. Is the $.10 per gallon worth that extra risk? Another myth about octane is that higher octane produces more power, wrong. Higher octane fuel is less volatile, less explosive, less prone to detonation.

A more 'volatile' fuel actually produces more energy per unit volume.You just have to watch out for detonation more. That's why higher compression engines use higher octane fuel, higher compression ratio (and higher altitude, lower air pressure) increases the tendency for detonation. Run super unleaded, but don't expect to gain power from the more expensive fuel. You CAN get more power, but it's from running more compression and spark advance.

PRE-IGNITION
This is premature ignition before the spark plug fires, usually caused by something glowing inside the cylinder such as carbon deposits or too hot a sparkplug tip. Do not confuse this with detonation. It is not the same.

Usually pre-ignition occurs when there are lots of "red hot" carbon deposits and unburned fuel in the combustion chambers.

If you turn of the ignition and your stang wants to keep on running, then you have pre-ignition.

The Cure: Eliminate carbon deposits and/or colder plugs, check fuel system.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Glossary of Terms

OCTANE
Octane is a chemical molecule. When referred to as ISO-octane in testing to find the "Octane" of a sample of gasoline, it is the reference fuel with the value of 100. In the testing of gasoline we use two reference fuels. The other one is N-Heptane which has an Octane value of 0 or zero.

OCTANE RATING
This is an anti-knock scale developed in the 1920's to rate the quality of a gasoline's ability to resist knocking or pinging. Samples of any gasoline are placed in a laboratory Knock Engine (this is a small, one cylinder engine with a variable combustion cylinder). While the engine is running, the combustion ratio is increased until the engine begins knocking. Now the gasoline is replaced with N-Heptane with an octane of zero and is mixed with the 100 octane ISO-Octane at various ratios until the motor "knocks." If you end up with 10% N-Heptane and 90% ISO-Octane ratio, your test sample has an octane of 90.

STOCHIOMETRIC AIR FUEL RATIO
The exact air fuel ratio required to completely combust a fuel to water and carbon dioxide. You get all the energy out of the fuel at this point. This air fuel ratio is almost impossible to achieve. Racing gasoline ideally burns at a 14:1 ratio. (14 parts air, 1 part gas).



Detonation and pinging can destroy your engine. Detonation ? Pinging ? Pre-Detonation ? Knocking ? Pre-Ignition ?

The above terms are very commonly used to describe the same thing, BUT not all of those words are interchangeable.

Lots of times you see statements like these:

"My car is pinging, and there's a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust"
"I can hear lots of detonation"
"My 95 GT pings a lot"
"I hear a knocking sound at high RPMS"
"My car pre-detonates a lot with the A/C on"

Very often what these users hears is DETONATION, other times it is NOT.

Details:

KNOCK, DETONATION OR PING

This is an intense pressure wave within the cylinder created when a LEAN mix of air and fuel ignites before the spark is delivered.The fuel/air mixture goes off by itself a micro second before the spark plug fires, at that time you have two intense high pressure waves clapping together and that energy wave hitting each other is the sound you hear. The sound you hear is from the actual vibration of the cylinder wall

Under normal circumstances, when the fuel-air mixture in the engine burns, it does so in a controlled manner, releasing the energy that produces the force that drives the pistons. Now, if you think about it, it might seem that the correct time for the spark plug to ignite the mix would be when the piston reaches the top of its stroke. Then, as the mix burns and energy is released, the energy pushes the piston down. The problem is that it takes a certain amount of time for the mix to burn. If you wait until the top of the stroke to ignite it, the bulk of the energy will be applied to the piston only during the latter part of its downward movement.

In order to get the maximum use out of the combustion energy, the mix is ignited while the piston is still moving up. This is called "advance". As the engine speed increases, fuel has less time to burn and advance is increased accordingly. Ignition advance is controlled by the engine management computer. It varies in response to a host of other conditions but the base advance curve is a function of engine speed.

Now we have a new problem. As the mix is ignited earlier, it is not compressed as much and has a tendency to burn at an uncontrolled extremely high rate (it basically explodes). This is called "detonation". When this happens, all the energy in the fuel is released almost instantly. The resulting shock wave slams into the piston which is forced through it by the inertia of the engine and the combustion in other cylinders . The resulting stress on the engine is enormous.

Detonation can be caused by several things not just a lean condition or bad choice of fuel octane: Too much compression and too much timing can also be to blame.

The most common way to describe the sound of detonation is: "like shaking a can full of marbles", but the BEST way to verify the existence of detonation is by reading the sparkplug's. If the plugs are very white, show a very eroded electrode and signs of metal deposits, then you have DETONATION.

The Cure: Less timing and/or higher octane gas and/or colder plugs.

Higher octane gas is a good safety measure. Is the $.10 per gallon worth that extra risk? Another myth about octane is that higher octane produces more power, wrong. Higher octane fuel is less volatile, less explosive, less prone to detonation.

A more 'volatile' fuel actually produces more energy per unit volume.You just have to watch out for detonation more. That's why higher compression engines use higher octane fuel, higher compression ratio (and higher altitude, lower air pressure) increases the tendency for detonation. Run super unleaded, but don't expect to gain power from the more expensive fuel. You CAN get more power, but it's from running more compression and spark advance.

PRE-IGNITION
This is premature ignition before the spark plug fires, usually caused by something glowing inside the cylinder such as carbon deposits or too hot a sparkplug tip. Do not confuse this with detonation. It is not the same.

Usually pre-ignition occurs when there are lots of "red hot" carbon deposits and unburned fuel in the combustion chambers.

If you turn of the ignition and your stang wants to keep on running, then you have pre-ignition.

The Cure: Eliminate carbon deposits and/or colder plugs, check fuel system.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Glossary of Terms

OCTANE
Octane is a chemical molecule. When referred to as ISO-octane in testing to find the "Octane" of a sample of gasoline, it is the reference fuel with the value of 100. In the testing of gasoline we use two reference fuels. The other one is N-Heptane which has an Octane value of 0 or zero.

OCTANE RATING
This is an anti-knock scale developed in the 1920's to rate the quality of a gasoline's ability to resist knocking or pinging. Samples of any gasoline are placed in a laboratory Knock Engine (this is a small, one cylinder engine with a variable combustion cylinder). While the engine is running, the combustion ratio is increased until the engine begins knocking. Now the gasoline is replaced with N-Heptane with an octane of zero and is mixed with the 100 octane ISO-Octane at various ratios until the motor "knocks." If you end up with 10% N-Heptane and 90% ISO-Octane ratio, your test sample has an octane of 90.

STOCHIOMETRIC AIR FUEL RATIO
The exact air fuel ratio required to completely combust a fuel to water and carbon dioxide. You get all the energy out of the fuel at this point. This air fuel ratio is almost impossible to achieve. Racing gasoline ideally burns at a 14:1 ratio. (14 parts air, 1 part gas).



Detonation and pinging can destroy your engine.
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Old 17-08-2005, 09:09 PM   #20
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Clarke AV - How much of the internet did you just post
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Old 17-08-2005, 09:12 PM   #21
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I almost read that twice
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Old 17-08-2005, 09:18 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TuMor
Clarke AV - How much of the internet did you just post


. ooo1
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Old 17-08-2005, 09:29 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarke AV
. ooo1

uhh thanks
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Old 17-08-2005, 11:48 PM   #24
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pretty informative though....i didn't know that!
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Old 17-08-2005, 11:55 PM   #25
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You learn something new every day
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Old 18-08-2005, 12:21 AM   #26
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I have used SUPER 104 Racing.....I find it excellent when drag racing.....But i got a new booster to try today...they are in tablet form....drop one into tank with every fill up...supposed to be very good....so well see.
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Old 18-08-2005, 09:24 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EASPRINT
I have used SUPER 104 Racing.....I find it excellent when drag racing.....But i got a new booster to try today...they are in tablet form....drop one into tank with every fill up...supposed to be very good....so well see.
THat would be right sell me the SUPER 104 and you run something else. lol
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Old 18-08-2005, 03:12 PM   #28
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Well, I have the marble noise over 100kmh.

I took 2 degrees out of the whole timing map..... 8 degrees at idle instead of 10, and under full load, 13 degrees rather than 15.

Detonation is now gone, but will put in octane booster to create a safety margain.

V8capri will be checking over the car tnite as well to ensure all is well for the weekend, weather permitting.
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Old 18-08-2005, 03:32 PM   #29
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Could have sworn i've read that word for word on a mustang site before.... (what i wouldnt give for a 95 GT!!)

Very useful information but not so useful without putting it into context... Mick, usually a tuner will map the fuel and spark to run on one certain fuel... and with a turbo it's fair to assume your tuner has tuned it to 98RON fuel. This not only includes the fuel/spark maps under boost but across all load/rpm points. Therefore, even at 3psi the timing advance is probably suited to 98RON (i.e. more aggressive advance).

If you must run it on 91RON (*choke*) probably shouldnt be running any boost at all and timing advance needs to come off...

But yeah - a bottle of octane boost (just tolulene isnt it??) should bring the RON up to spec. If you've filled up with 98 more than once and it still pings then your tune needs some work...

EDIT: oh well, looks like you beat me to it
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Old 18-08-2005, 04:30 PM   #30
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Yep, wolf things aside, nothing has changed...... front wheel bushes in T04 are shot!!!

no movement of the wheel up and down, but it can be pulled in and out a few mills.

There goes my racing at Heathcote!!!

Rebuild of turbo number 1!!!!
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