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#1741 | |||
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PX MK II Ranger FG XR6 FG X XR8 Mustang GT T3 TS50 - gone but not forgotten |
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#1742 | ||
Barra Turbo > V8
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Posts: 25,694
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Another rookie question.
Tonneau covers. Mines in pretty good condition, but id like to try and make it a little better. Id assume could use same kind of product as on a soft top car possibly.
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#1743 | |||
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Quote:
I do note 303 also have a combined cleaner/dressing for soft tops and tonneau's would be worth looking at too - https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...le-top-cleaner
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#1744 | |||
Barra Turbo > V8
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Quote:
I'll add it to my cart. Yeah, it doesnt see much if any weather and is garaged so that'll work I think
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#1745 | ||
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There is the risk of the dressing you choose running a bit onto the paintwork. That really only happens when a car see's weather though. If you work it in and don't slather it on you will be fine.
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#1746 | ||
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PX MK II Ranger FG XR6 FG X XR8 Mustang GT T3 TS50 - gone but not forgotten |
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#1747 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: A.C.T
Posts: 1,569
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Don’t laugh, I have also polished my mower!Just to pass time, you understand of course.
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2022 Honda HRV e:HEV in Premium crystal red. |
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#1748 | |||
Barra Turbo > V8
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Quote:
Wont happen again thats for sure.
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#1749 | ||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,488
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Supercheap do stock some of the 303 range. Not sure about autobarn/repco etc. Sometimes relying on Australia Post takes too long.
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#1750 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 3,867
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Autobarn sell the 303 products. I've bought the Protectant there in the past, and last time got the Touchless Sealant from them. (Penrith NSW store)
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Currently no V8 in the garage! |
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#1751 | |||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,488
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Quote:
Having microdiscectomy (surgery) on the 14th of this month. Long slow recovery after but hopefully I can resume normal life for many years after. In the meantime I think the cars will just get a snow job, rinse and blow dry. I wonder if anyone does a decent wash sponge on a stick??
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#1752 | ||
T3/Sprint8
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 16,317
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ewwww that sucks for such a young fella prydey, no bike riding as well I expect.
Sorry to hear hope the surgery is successful.
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Tickfords T3/TS50 '02 Sprint8 manual Sept 24 '16 Daily Macan GTS "Don't believe everything you read on the internet. Abraham Lincoln" |
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#1753 | ||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,488
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Yeah, haven't ridden since feb sometime and no riding for at least 6 weeks after. Something they've learned is the healing process is critical to long term durability.
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#1754 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
![]() Not that I am insinuating you have a weight control problem. Seriously though, yes such a thing exists, although out of stock at the moment. https://store.primefinish.com.au/col...ipole-full-kit ![]() Take care, they will get you sorted.
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PX MK II Ranger FG XR6 FG X XR8 Mustang GT T3 TS50 - gone but not forgotten |
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#1755 | ||
Donating Member
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Tyre Cleaning 101.
There was a time when I could not see the reason or point in cleaning tyres. The pivot point for me was when I spotted a fellow forum member trying a new tyre dressing and his recommendation of cleaning the rubber well to ensure a proper bond. That new product was Gyeon Q2 Tire. At the time, I did not have an appropriate tyre brush or tyre cleaner. My solution was some Meguiars APC and a household dustpan brush. Things have changed for me in that regard just a little. ![]() ![]() ![]() It didn't take long for me to catch up though! So why do detailer's clean tyres? The main reason is to remove tyre "Blooming". This is where antiozonant rises to the outer edge of the tyre casing. When this element comes into contact with oxygen, it leaves behind a brown residue on the surface. (Antiozonant helps tires last longer as it slows deterioration due to oxidation.) Removing this and other grime attached to the sidewall improves the look of the tyre. And because the rubber is clean, it accepts a dressing much better, both in terms application ease and durability. My first dedicated tyre cleaner was another Gyeon product, Q2M Tire Cleaner, teamed with a Maxshine Tyre Brush. ![]() ![]() The Gyeon Tire Cleaner was rubbish, the brush on the other hand brilliant. There are a couple of things that make a good tyre cleaning brush; short, stiff bristles and an ergonomic design to make the process easier. There are many different takes on a brush like this. This Gyeon brush looked promising when I ordered it, but I found it to be less ergonomic in use and had to be held in a certain way to work properly - https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...q2m-tyre-brush ![]() ![]() ![]() This design seems to be popular, although I don't like the way the brush is angled, and it wouldn't really suit low profile tyres - ![]() This is where the classic Tuff Shine / Maxshine brush comes in. It can be used for both high and low-profile tyres, the handle is perfectly sized and the bristles stiff to give good cleaning power. The best bit, these are very cheap and durable. Mine has been very well used and has held up brilliantly. https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...cleaning-brush ![]() ![]() However, I recently got my hands on the new Detail Factory Tire Scrub Brush. https://detailingshed.com.au/product...06384a3d&_ss=r https://carcareco.com.au/product/det...e-scrub-brush/ https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...39784756379703 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Compared to the similar looking Maxshine, the Detail Factory version has slightly longer and softer bristles. What that means is that it offers superior scrubbing, afforded by the brushes ability to conform to the sidewall. The rubberized handle makes it nicer to hold as well. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() So, what chemicals can be used for cleaning tyres? As a very broad rule of thumb, a product that is very alkaline will be able to cut through the blooming and old dressings. For example, a heavy duty dilution of APC can be used. You can also get dedicated tyre cleaners, think Shine Supply Wise Guy, P&S Undressed and Carpro ReTyre - https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...y&_ss=e&_v=1.0 https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...t&_ss=e&_v=1.0 https://carcareco.com.au/product/p-s...-wall-cleaner/ There are also combined wheel and tyre cleaners. Think Meguiars Non-Acid Wheel/Tyre Cleaner and P&S Brake Buster - https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...SABEgKHc_D_BwE https://detailingshed.com.au/product...18519528374329 In this case, I'm using Brake Buster undiluted for maximum cleaning power - ![]() ![]() And here, I'm using P&S Undressed - ![]() ![]() ![]() The goal here is continuing to clean the tyres until they no longer turn brown under agitation. Once the tyres are cleaned like this, they will take much less effort in the following washes. The result should be a clean, dry and matte looking sidewall - ![]() ![]() ![]() If you have problems getting them truly clean like this, try using Stoners Tarminator. While this is a tar remover, it's exceptionally good at stripping any remaining residue. Spray the product into a towel and scrub aggressively. ![]() You will now have a clean slate to start applying your chosen dressing. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Happy Tyre Cleaning........
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#1756 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 3,867
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Quote:
Hi DFB, The 303 Touchless did the job alright but afterwards when I went to buff up the wheels before applying the tyre dressing I noticed I had some areas I hadn't cleaned properly. So I will let you know again after the next time I wash the car. (Have to improve my wheelwashing techniques!) I diluted the MultiX 20:1 and used that to clean the engine bay and door jambs. They came up pretty good. I was thinking of giving this car a ceramic coat but have decided to try various products instead and see how they go. I saw Sandro from Car Craft use the Scholl's on an Audi S1 (or RS1?) and as it was done by hand gave it a go. Cheers
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#1757 | |||
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Quote:
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#1758 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 71
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Hi everyone
Just after some advice on a fgx sedan the black trim which I would assume is plastic that runs along the roof from front to back near the doors, how do we keep this looking like new (which product to use?) without damaging the paint on either side?? Any help appreciated. Thanks |
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#1759 | |||
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Quote:
Firstly, ensure the trim is not stained by polish residue. Ideally, I would recommend Meguiar's M39 Heavy Duty Vinyl cleaner, however that is not retailed locally so you would need to order it from the USA. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M-39.../dp/B0000AY3SX Also look at Megs M40, this is a combined cleaner and condition. https://www.automegastore.com.au/meg...ditioner-473ml Otherwise, a pencil eraser will also do the job, likewise a very strong APC solution. Either way, make sure the trim is then free of any residue before going to the next step using an IPA type product or even water. Once clean, you can either dress it with an appropriate product or use a trim restorer. Keep in mind a dressing will only last a few wash cycles, a restorer months or years. Dressing - I like 303 Protectant or Carpro Perl. These will leave this trim looking natural. https://www.waxit.com.au/products/30...3&_ss=e&_v=1.0 https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...245a5be5&_ss=r Restorers - Look into a ceramic coating like Carpro DLUX - https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...x&_ss=e&_v=1.0 Solution Finish is also worth a look. This product has a dye in it to restore the colour and lock it in for a matte finish - https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-trim-restorer I also don't mind Mothers Naturally Black - https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds With all of the restorer type products, I would be masking off those sections to avoid getting the product on the paint.
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#1760 | ||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,488
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Had a couple of days of sunshine in Adelaide so despite my failing back I decided to give the Territory a wash. Just had to limit bending, so washing lower sections on my knees etc... Took over 3 hours just to wash it, which may be normal for some but not me.
I'd bought carpro reset during my last shop, as well as nv lustre and nv jet. I bought the last two in a kit which included nv clarify, but didn't bother with that step. Hard to say if I noticed a big difference with the carpro reset but I was using nv snow so already a high bar. Maybe placebo but I did think the paint had a bit more depth afterward. Car was filthy. I snow foamed it with nv snow first and then bucket washed with the carpro reset. Any dirt came off easy and I was impressed with the ease at which pollen spots (bee poop ![]() What I will say is, and it does mention this in the product description, carpro reset isn't great if you wash in the sunshine. I was aware of this so tried to work quickly but there were a few areas where I noticed while drying it had left run marks. These wiped off fine but just something to be aware of. Leaving the car overnight, today I gave it a coating of nv lustre. I haven't hand applied anything for many years. I did give it a coating of bowdens wet dreams a while ago but that was spray on, squirt off. I wasn't sure how much to put on so just went by the instructions on the bottle. I didn't notice a massive difference if I'm honest. Obviously different to touch but thought I would have seen an obvious difference between treated and untreated areas. It did look better, don't get me wrong, and smoother. Maybe I was a bit shy with how much I used. I misted the whole section I did at a time but no hazing or anything after second wipe with fresh cloth. Tomorrow I plan to give it a coat of nv jet. Lustre and jet go well together so looking forward to seeing how that will go.
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#1761 | |||
Peter Car
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: geelong
Posts: 23,145
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#1762 | ||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,488
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Apologies for posting some pics more down the mediocre end of the spectrum. I didn't do any paint correction or anything. It's just washed with carpro reset and then a coating of nv lustre and then a coating of nv jet. I've never applied anything like these products before so just followed the directions. They seemed too simple, just spray on, wipe in and wipe off with a clean towel. I think it's come up ok myself with some reasonable reflections. I don't do it justice with the phone camera though.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The lustre said to use a damp cloth which I did, and it was incredibly easy to apply and then wipe off giving a nice smooth feel to the paint. The jet didn't mention damp cloth and it was a lot harder to apply, with the cloth not really wanting to glide across the surface. I was generous with the amount I used to try to compensate but didn't make much difference. It buffed dry fine and the results look ok. Would love to hear feedback on whether I can do something better in the future. Cheers. And yes I need to have a clean up in my carport...
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#1763 | |||
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Quote:
a) Just wait till you get the Territory wet again! Nova Jet is as close to ceramic coating as it gets for water behavior. I often use it to top an existing wax or sealant to ramp up the hydrophobic properties. b) Out of the two, I prefer to use Jet on its own as I find it can be finicky when topping Lustre. That is odd because the two were developed in tandem. There will be some amount of rejection though after using an already slick product beforehand (Lustre). c) Often, prevailing weather conditions can play a part in the application process, as in humidity and temperature. d) Make sure you allow Lustre to cure for at least 2 hours before the application of Jet. e) The moist towel for the Lustre application seems to me like a recent thing. Next time, try that with Jet as well. f) I found with Jet that it's good to load up your towel with product before starting on the first few panels. I prime the towel or applicator with several sprays until the towel feels damp on your hand, then apply two or three sprays per panel. To me, it feels easier as you continue to move around the car and the towel gets more loaded with product, priming the towel mimics this from the beginning. Overall, I think your results look great. I can see the gloss in that paint, and that is often hard to capture on a paint colour like that. I will also say, considering your poor back, good on you have my respect for pushing through the pain and getting the job done. ![]()
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#1764 | |||
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Quote:
![]() Very easy application and apparently lasts up to 100 washes.
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#1765 | |||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,488
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Quote:
I did lustre yesterday and jet today so plenty of time between coats. I did pretty much everything you said. Really wanted to get the car done before my surgery as I'll be pretty useless afterwards for a while. Glad I got it done and hopefully a snow foam and rinse off will keep it presentable in the coming months. Thanks again.
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#1766 | |||
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#1767 | ||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,488
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Lyrica 300mg morning and night
Palexia 100mg morning and night Fenac 50mg 3x daily.
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#1768 | ||
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Thought so. Not good, but as I said, pain is a bit.h!
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#1769 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,127
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Ive had a bit of an oops today. Not too happy.
Was aiming for a bit of personal therapy with some detailing. All the wax and sealant got washed off the Focus in all the rain we’ve just had in Sydney. So decided to wash and use the claying rubber also before waxing and sealing again. Whilst the claying rubber has made the paint smooth it looks to have potentially made the bad swirls the car already had significantly worse and mark the paint on creases and edges (such as wheel arches). Perhaps I didn’t lube up enough, maybe was not being careful enough. I discovered this during waxing and am not happy. I completed the waxing but looks like I need to go over with some polish to try remove the marks at a minimum and re wax those spots again. Therapy failed massively.
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#1770 | |||
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Using clay or clay like products, there is always the risk of introducing some paint marring. Don't be too hard on yourself, it can/does happen to us all.
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