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Old 08-01-2015, 12:36 PM   #1
Ricknel76
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Smile tie rod removal

Hi all,
just want to find out if you can remove and replace the tie rod without the use of a tie rod removal tool?
Any other suggestions will be most appreciated.

Thanks Rick
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Old 08-01-2015, 01:32 PM   #2
Evgeni
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Default Re: tie rod removal

Two hits with a hammer on the part of the spindle that the tie rod goes through will release it.
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Old 08-01-2015, 01:47 PM   #3
Ricknel76
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Default Re: tie rod removal

Thanks, but I think that you are referring to the tie rod end.

The part that I have in question is the bit that connects the tie rod end to the rack. Maybe called rack end?

Its the bit that lives under the rubber boot.

Thanks again anyway.

Cheers Rick
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:32 AM   #4
Bushbasher
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Default Re: tie rod removal

Yup, it can be done with a couple of spanners. I changed a rack end on the wagon that way. Slide the boot back from the rack and just unscrew the rod from the rack. Before you start, put a mark on the thread where the lock nut sits going into the tie rod end, so you can get the tie rod end in about the same position when you put the new rod on. If you get it right your wheel alignment should be within a turn either way and you can adjust it by seat of the pants with the 15mm spanner. Go for a drive on a quiet street and adjust the rod by 1/4 turns at a time till the car tracks straight. When you pull up, put the steering on full lock, exposing the rod in the wheel arch behind the wheel, then just reach in with the spanner and tweak the rod till it's right. Without knowing which side you are changing I'll just say it's the left one; so if it pulls left then you know you still have toe out and need to wind out to push the wheel straight, if it feels nervous and the steering wheel feels too light or doesn't want to stay on centre then you don't have enough toe out and need to wind in. To get it just right you might end up with 1/8th turn adjustments in the end but on the whole it's not hard to do with a bit of quiet flat road and 10 minutes. Once happy with the tracking tighten the lock nuts but hold the rod with the 15mm spanner while you do it or you will rotate the rod slightly as you nip up the lock nut and throw out the alignment again.
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Last edited by Bushbasher; 09-01-2015 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 09-01-2015, 04:26 PM   #5
Ricknel76
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Default Re: tie rod removal

Cheers. Thanks for that.

I just didn't want to buy the inner tie rod tool and maybe never use it again.

Rick
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Old 11-01-2015, 05:48 PM   #6
Bushbasher
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Default Re: tie rod removal

There's a tool? I just undid the lock nut and screwed it out with the spanner.
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HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body

MINE- AUII Forte
Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock.

MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares

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Old 11-01-2015, 10:00 PM   #7
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Default Re: tie rod removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushbasher View Post
Yup, it can be done with a couple of spanners. I changed a rack end on the wagon that way. Slide the boot back from the rack and just unscrew the rod from the rack. Before you start, put a mark on the thread where the lock nut sits going into the tie rod end, so you can get the tie rod end in about the same position when you put the new rod on. If you get it right your wheel alignment should be within a turn either way and you can adjust it by seat of the pants with the 15mm spanner. Go for a drive on a quiet street and adjust the rod by 1/4 turns at a time till the car tracks straight. When you pull up, put the steering on full lock, exposing the rod in the wheel arch behind the wheel, then just reach in with the spanner and tweak the rod till it's right. Without knowing which side you are changing I'll just say it's the left one; so if it pulls left then you know you still have toe out and need to wind out to push the wheel straight, if it feels nervous and the steering wheel feels too light or doesn't want to stay on centre then you don't have enough toe out and need to wind in. To get it just right you might end up with 1/8th turn adjustments in the end but on the whole it's not hard to do with a bit of quiet flat road and 10 minutes. Once happy with the tracking tighten the lock nuts but hold the rod with the 15mm spanner while you do it or you will rotate the rod slightly as you nip up the lock nut and throw out the alignment again.
Geez Bushie for $45 I'd rather get my local Wheel aligner to do it
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:24 AM   #8
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Default Re: tie rod removal

My "local" wheel aligner is 60km away and when I got them to check the alignment the next time I was in town it was so close to perfect he said there was no point touching it. Besides, why pay someone $45 to do something you can do yourself for free.
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HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body

MINE- AUII Forte
Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock.

MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares

.
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Old 12-01-2015, 11:30 AM   #9
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Default Re: tie rod removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushbasher View Post
Besides, why pay someone $45 to do something you can do yourself for free.
Well my local bloke is 10mins away and I can wander around his place chatting to him whilst drinking his coffee............


Anyway I'm lazy and can't be bothered getting in and out of the car.
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