Engine Start

[Ivandebaugy]

AU Classic 1999 Has anyone had experience of intermittent failure of the engine to start. 14 days starts first time then all of a sudden dead, the engine cranks over at normal speed the battery fully charged but no attempt to fire at all, I could be anywhere, any ideas please

[EvilChief]

thats an open can of worms, without some basic diagnostics no real answer can be offered here.

Do you have spark/ignition?
Do you have injecor pulse?
Do you have fuel flow and pressure?

Thats the 3 main things you have to check before you can start drawing suggestions on where to find a possible fault.

No spark, but injection signal and fuel pressure/flow: Dead coilpack, ECU
No injection signal, but spark and fuel pressure/flow: Blown fuse, ECU
No fuel pressure/flow, but spark and injection signal: Dead fuel pump, ECU, Immobiliser
No spark, injection or fuel pressure/flow: Faulty ECU, EFI fuse, Immobiliser, Crank/Cam sensor fault.

The list goes on.

[aussiblue]

Cracked coils can be heat dependent and cause intermittent starts I would check for a spark at number 1 plug next time it won't start.

[4ford]

Hey Ivan...

I had a similar problem a while ago with my '01 S2 Fairmont 6!

I finally found out that the battery was the problem, it had sufficient power to turn the engine over quite normally, but would not light the engine.

What I found was that the battery voltage was getting so low whilst under load, turning the engine, that the ignition system wouldn't work, so no start!

What you can do to check it out is connect another 12V car battery, as you would when you jump start another car (leaving your original battery in place), that will substantially increase the capacity (amperage) available to your cars' systems, without increasing the voltage.
Then try a start, if your battery is low, as mine was, now your car will start normally.
If this test is successful, get your original battery tested for capacity, you'll find it is low, also, with your car running, check the voltage at the positive terminal, it should read around 14.7 volts.
If it's much lower than that, the car's voltage regulator (mounted on the back of the alternator) is at fault...or if it's OK, then your battery needs replacing.

Of course, all this relies on good connections at both terminals of the battery.

Cheers

[Ivandebaugy]

Originally Posted by EvilChief

thats an open can of worms, without some basic diagnostics no real answer can be offered here.

Do you have spark/ignition?
Do you have injecor pulse?
Do you have fuel flow and pressure?

Thats the 3 main things you have to check before you can start drawing suggestions on where to find a possible fault.

No spark, but injection signal and fuel pressure/flow: Dead coilpack, ECU
No injection signal, but spark and fuel pressure/flow: Blown fuse, ECU
No fuel pressure/flow, but spark and injection signal: Dead fuel pump, ECU, Immobiliser
No spark, injection or fuel pressure/flow: Faulty ECU, EFI fuse, Immobiliser, Crank/Cam sensor fault.

The list goes on.

Hi EvilChief]
Very many thanks for your help.
I rather think most of the items you mention would cause a complete engine shut down I have as I said intermittent failure 10 times starts first time then all of a sudden dead once. next 10 fine and so on I am concerned I might get caught someware remote.
My car has been to the dealer twice, big bill, car just the same as the fault was not on when he applied the fault analyser.

Kindest regards
Ivan

[Ivandebaugy]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Cracked coils can be heat dependent and cause intermittent starts I would check for a spark at number 1 plug next time it won't start.

Thanks Blue I will try this next time
Regards Ivan

[Ivandebaugy]

Originally Posted by 4ford

Hey Ivan...

I had a similar problem a while ago with my '01 S2 Fairmont 6!

I finally found out that the battery was the problem, it had sufficient power to turn the engine over quite normally, but would not light the engine.

What I found was that the battery voltage was getting so low whilst under load, turning the engine, that the ignition system wouldn't work, so no start!

What you can do to check it out is connect another 12V car battery, as you would when you jump start another car (leaving your original battery in place), that will substantially increase the capacity (amperage) available to your cars' systems, without increasing the voltage.
Then try a start, if your battery is low, as mine was, now your car will start normally.

If this test is successful, get your original battery tested for capacity, you'll find it is low, also, with your car running, check the voltage at the positive terminal, it should read around 14.7 volts.
If it's much lower than that, the car's voltage regulator (mounted on the back of the alternator) is at fault...or if it's OK, then your battery needs replacing.

Of course, all this relies on good connections at both terminals of the battery.

Cheers

Hi Ford4,
Good point I do know Fords like a really good voltage to operate the ignition I tried a fully charged jump start battery dispite my battery showing 14.2 volts no differance I'm afraid
Ivan

[aussiblue]

Also see http://www.bmfi.com.au/files/interje...SparesTips.pdf and http://www.bmfi.com.au/files/interje...chBookTips.pdf