[How To] TDCI Timing Belt Replacement - 2.0L QXBA DW10 140PS

[steve289]

I ended up selling my Mondeo a few weeks ago, so on the hunt for a new car now.
Sold it for $7600 after doing all new brakes (pads & rotors) a rear door lock actuator & front fog light, so realistically got about $6K for it, not too bad for a 10 year old car., plus was discounted to heliport a close friend.

Will choose between either the new Escape AWD, or a Mazda CX5 Turbo AWD
Also test drove a Forester, which was nice and comfortable, but just lacking some finesse, + a bit harsh & noisy.
Drove the Escape ST Line (FWD) this morning, need to check an AWD variant to make a final decision.

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by steve289

I ended up selling my Mondeo a few weeks ago, so on the hunt for a new car now.
Sold it for $7600 after doing all new brakes (pads & rotors) a rear door lock actuator & front fog light, so realistically got about $6K for it, not too bad for a 10 year old car., plus was discounted to heliport a close friend.

Will choose between either the new Escape AWD, or a Mazda CX5 Turbo AWD
Also test drove a Forester, which was nice and comfortable, but just lacking some finesse, + a bit harsh & noisy.
Drove the Escape ST Line (FWD) this morning, need to check an AWD variant to make a final decision.

Did you look at the Endure? It is on my wishlist for my Mondeo replacement.

[Mondaveo]

Originally Posted by steve289

I ended up selling my Mondeo a few weeks ago ... to heliport a close friend.

Have you pointed them to these forums yet?

Originally Posted by bundybear75

Did you look at the Endure? It is on my wishlist for my Mondeo replacement.

Endura has been discontinued in Australia from the end of this year, so you'd need to get in quick.
https://www.whichcar.com.au/car-news...ps-endura-2020
Although in your case Bundy, I suppose you'd be looking for a used-car bargain rather than new, so no rush on it (it wasn't a big seller though so supply on the used market is probably going to be constrained)?

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

Have you pointed them to these forums yet?


Endura has been discontinued in Australia from the end of this year, so you'd need to get in quick.
https://www.whichcar.com.au/car-news...ps-endura-2020
Although in your case Bundy, I suppose you'd be looking for a used-car bargain rather than new, so no rush on it (it wasn't a big seller though so supply on the used market is probably going to be constrained)?

Bugger.....

Unfortunately, the fleet companies never really took up the Endura, so very few coming through second hand.

I guess a diesel Escape could fill the gap, but i'm not sure I'd fit in one. I want something with a little more ground clearance, due to my rough driveway and the occasional run in with roadkill.

[drittfiske]

Posting for anyone still searching for info on this.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread, and to cobrin for his amazing how to https://fordforums.com.au/vbportal/v...articleid=1718

After 11 hours I've just completed the job on a 2012 LW Focus. Not sure how the Focus engine bay compares to the Mondeo but it was a **** of a job, especially the starter motor as everyone has said.

Tools/parts:

I ordered the parts from Trodo.com. Never heard of them prior to this but the order arrived from Europe (Poland I think) in under a week.

Water Pump & Timing Belt Set SKF VKMC 03205 40_VKMC_03205 1 €88.23
Shaft Seal, crankshaft ELRING 393.990 11_393_990 1 €9.77
Shipping & Handling €45.90
Grand Total €143.90 ($224AUD)

I got a Gates Micro-V 6PK1245 $55AUD from Repco (could have ordered this from Trodo for $23AUD but forgot).

Also bought the timing lock kit from Catch.com.au of all places. It was $50 adn shipping took 2 weeks (pretty sure it was sitting at Heathrow waiting to be sent as a bulk Catch shipment as the seller dispatched within a couple of days).
AB Tools Engine Timing Locking Setting Kit For Peugeot Ford Rover Volvo 2.0 + 2.2LD

Got a 600mm breaker bar and 600mm extension bar for the dreaded crankshaft bolt.

I also needed to run to Bunnings to get an 11mm spanner/wrench for one of the water pump nuts that is a combo nut/bolt. A 16mm spanner/wrench would have come in handy for the timing belt idler but a shifting spanner did the job and saved me a second trip to Bunnings.

Methodology:
If you follow cobrin's how-to and use one of Alan Howatt's videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACXiKbkXhvM
or any others that you find you'll have all the info you need. Alan has a few so you can look at a couple to get different ideas.

Extra tips that helped me:
Removing the starter motor is step 1 and it's the hardest step. If you can get it free you're halfway there. It has three bolts that screw directly into the starter motor housing and they're almost impossible to see or get a socket onto. I got the bottom two from under the car and the top one from the top, but I had to remove the intake pipe and push it to the drivers side of the car to get some access, as well as moving cables and other bits and pieces out of the way as much as possible. Once the bolts are remove the starter still didn't want to come completely free of the housing but I managed to pry it enough to clear it and tuck it out of the way as much as possible towards the radiator. Getting it back in position later was also a struggle. Again, this was not a fun time.

Getting the flywheel pin in seems impossible first time. There's no room to work and it's a super tight fit. I sanded down the pin to make it a slightly easier fit. It goes in about 20mm once fully in. I used some marker paint on the flywheel to make it easier to find the right spot later on when you need to lock it again. Worked a treat.

The flywheel locking kit is also a pain. I used the bolts from the intake pipe and a couple of nuts I had that fit to secure the locking plate to the starter motor holes and getting the bolts and nuts on was just as much screwing around as getting the starter motor bolts out.

Once you've got this done getting the auxiliary belt off is easy. Pull down on it as hard as you can and jam a small allen key into the tensioner wheel lockout hole. Once the tensioner wheel is locked out the belt is easy to get off and on.

Remove the timing covers. The top one is a very tight squeeze to get out on the Focus. I tore some of the foam gasket getting it out (and back in later). Patched it up as good as I could.

Make sure you heat up the crankshaft bolt to free up the loctite or whatever insanity is used. I used a $6 blow torch from Supercheap for a couple of minutes. Even with the breaker bar it was tight, and I held my breath until it was fully out. If it had snapped I might have just set fire to the garage and called it a day.

Once the timing belt tensioner wheel was off I pinned the cam wheel. There was no point pinning it prior to this as it didn't quite line up. Once it was pinned off came the belt. Getting the new one on wasn't as easy, but first the water pump.

About 6L of coolant came out with the pump. A bucket caught most of it. Cleaned the surface and on with the new pump. Because I'm tight I filtered the coolant and chucked it back in later (also because I only changed the coolant a year ago).

On with the tensioner and idler wheels, then the timing belt. When putting on the timing belt only put it half on the cam sprocket, tensioner and idler wheels. It makes it just a tiny bit easier to get it onto the water pump and crankshaft sprockets. Once it's half on all sprockets you can push it on fully. Even doing this it's a tight fit.

Follow cobrin's instructions for verification that you're not smashing valves into pistons, then reassemble everything. If you have any nuts or bolts leftover head straight to Facebook and move it on lickety split. It was time for an upgrade anyway.

If you want to borrow the locking kit I'm in Footscray. I'm happy to talk you through the job in person and whilst I'll lend you the kit I won't be going near another timing belt for at least 10 years.